San Polo and Santa Croce. Rialto market . The Rialto Bridge (Venice).
Region of San Polo and Santa Croce are located between the Rialto market and the railway station on the left - if you look at the map - the bank of the Grand Canal, and not even all the local know where exactly the boundary between them .If the San Marco - Venice front , there is its foundation : the Rialto , the main market town, with an X on the XVI century was the commercial and financial center of Europe . Today, the area around the Rialto - one of the real places in town where all the talk of Venice and the poetic visionary can cause a rumbling in my stomach.
The main hiking path in an area from the Rialto to the west along the Grand Canal , past the Church of Frari to the bridge of the Academy. Segment of the Rialto to the Frari - shopping , crowded and quite modest, but further increases the drama.From giant Frari church complex , from Scuol San Rocco come strong evaporation of faith and intense passion of painting: Titian and Tintoretto are in a dangerous concentration . This is not the sights - it's experience.
On the road from the market to the station you are waiting for small churches , unsightly outside, but with surprises inside (San Cassiano , San Giacomo - dal - Orio ), as well as restaurants and bars, matching the same description .
When almost all Venice was covered with water , there was a large island Rivoalto (\
Kogda pochti vsya Venetsiya byla pokryta vodoĭ, zdesʹ nahodilsya bolʹshoĭ ostrov Rivoalʹto (\u0026quot;vysokiĭ bereg\u0026quot;).In 810 , shortly after Pepin conquered the then capital of the island confederation Malamocco , the capital functions were transferred just here . The palace was built at San Marco , and at the Rialto bridge where the ships came together , there was shopping and banking world .As a business engaged in all of Venice ( and aristocrats, recorded in the Golden Book , and the bourgeoisie , which had the status of citizens ) , it was the true center of the city.
The Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto) with beautiful water, a solid acquaintance resembles a barn in the Crimea , where the greed of the leased every inch .People nervous it makes sense to pass on the right-most ( from San Marco ) bay , where there are almost no people . The same line and should stay on. The bridge continues a series of souvenir stalls from the dead, but the slide to the right - and there will be a real market , where everything just bursts with life : branchlivye mistress , fatty ham , cheese, tomatoes and a little farther , and fish.
In winter 1514 all but the church of San Giacomo, here was destroyed by fire , during which citizens zealously saved his goods , but no one had thought to begin to extinguish the flames. For the main architectural project officials ( Skarpanino , then Sansovino ) market is rapidly re- built with the money Doge.in the Palazzo camerlengo (Palazzo dei Camerlenghi, 1525-1528) at the bridge on the right housed the management of the market and a loggia for the negotiations of merchants , and along with debtor's prison , in continuation of the bridge stood two lines of the series , which later was called the Old trading stalls (Fabbriche Vecchie, 1520 -1522 ) , in contrast to a similar line of New (Fabbriche Nuove,1550- e) along the Grand CanalEverything is here at home :There is nothing wonderful in principle construct did not, leaving this nonsense of San Marco. On the right side of the Old and New series are now in excellent bars , where you can stand for a drink and the water - the more modern restaurants. Toponyms fragrant : Naranzaria - Orange Street , Erbaria - Green , Cordaria - hemp .It should, of course , carefully examine and Fish Market (Pescheria, Tue-Sat 7. 00-12 . 00) on the banks of the Grand Canal. Trade in fish cchitaetsya profitable and honorable profession: a license issued only older fishermen who have worked in a sea of not less than twenty years, it was some kind of pension .The current building in 1907 - a replica , almost a joke on the theme of Venetian Gothic . In the evening, this is one of the most desolate places in the city - a strange dip into time and space , located in the two crowds from the crowd.
In Venice - the city-state built on free enterprise - the ratio of the market was the most serious: over it oversaw the heads of the earth (in the upper floors of the shopping malls were judicial office) and the celestial .Headquarters past has been and remains a small church of San Giacomo di Rialto , (San Giacomo di Rialto), lost in the market. In each type of commodity traders here were special altars, and their saints , they vowed not cheat , and when it happened to atone for sin .Today there are all the same: the feeling that this church for their own , the lovers of pure art is to do nothing. Morals and breathes on the architecture : the building of the XI century was rebuilt many times, but always kept the plan in the form of a Greek cross with a dome - in Venice, as in Russia , it clearly expresses the spirit of the good old days .That's good, old, but pretty useless in practice and show time clock on the facade, whose face is divided into 24 parts . In front of the church installed a pedestal from which echoed with the laws ( at the same time , the same laws were read and the San Marco ).His holding of the XVI century sculpture , known as \Yego derzhit skulʹptura XVI veka, izvestnaya pod imenem \u0026quot;Gorbun\u0026quot; (Gobbo di Rialto).
The market has been and is still a church , whose existence is not even aware of all the Venetians - San Giovanni Elemozinario (San Giovanni Elemosinario, that is St. John's begging, Mon- Sat 10 . 00 -17. 00, Sun 13 . 00-17 . 00, July-August Mon- Sat 10 . 00-17 . 00, entry € 2 , the Church enters into the Chorus).Adjacent to the old mall , it is built with them, the project Skarpanino (fire all so scared that the bell tower of San Giovanni each evening between nine and ten were beaten in the bell to remind you to put out the fire). Entrance to the Church , with Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni, but it must still find among the trays with tablecloths.In the vaulted hall was a reading room, where merchants could consult with a set of commercial agreements between Venice and other countries, as well as a best seller at the time - a book of Marco Polo. The interior - a modest renaissance ; altar belongs to Titian , side altar ( with the Saints Catherine, Sebastian and Rohom ) and the dome - his envious rival Pordenone.The latter saints so perfect throw up their hands , and the angels so famously , like bunches of sausages hanging from the sky, which he certainly wins.
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